A no-nonsense guide to wall panelling

If you’ve been eyeing those gorgeously detailed walls on Instagram and thinking, “I could do that,” you’re absolutely right you can!

Panelling is one of the quickest ways to add character and value to a room without doing some serious renovations, so it doesn’t surprise me that you want to give it a go. It’s actually a very affordable change to make, too. But it makes a room look so much more luxurious.

I’ve tried to write this post as if I were standing next to you with a tape measure and a cuppa, so expect practical, down-to-earth advice. Below, you’ll find:

• How to decide on the look of the panelling
• What tools you need
• How to measure properly
• How to prepare your walls
• Laying out the panels
• Making the cuts
• How to cut around sockets, switches and radiators
• Sealing and finishing touches

I will also cover mistakes to avoid (from a pro who’s done it before) and some extra tips.

 

Step 1: Decide on the look first (and sketch it)

Before you buy a single strip of wood, choose the panelling style that suits your room.

It’s not as simple as walking into B&Q and buying the first one you pick up, and each style lends itself to a different finish.

Deep-framed panels give a classic period feel, whereas beaded or tongue-and-groove boards read more cottagey and picture-rail or dado panels are brilliant for hallways.

 

The colour you choose makes a big impact too. It can take traditional panelling and turn it modern, like in the image above. The black is really beautiful and daring, but works well with the minimalist, modern furniture.

Once you know the style, sketch the wall onto paper and mark where the panels will sit. This helps you decide symmetrical versus offset layouts and whether the panels should run floor to ceiling or stop above skirting.

Big tip: sketching saves grief later. It lets you avoid awkward half-panels around doors and windows and makes material calculation far easier. This is a step most retailers and DIY guides emphasise because it prevents wasted kits and awkward small filler pieces.

 

Step 2: Gather your tools and materials

You’ll need a handful of sensible tools rather than a van full of kit. To DIY your panelling, you’ll need:

• A tape measure
• A spirit level or laser level
• A pencil
• A stud finder
• A mitre saw
• A nail gun or hammer
• Panel pins
• A caulk gun
• Wood filler
• Fine sandpaper
• Adhesive
• Masking tape
• Sugar soap*
• Brush/roller
• Primer and your paint of choice*.

Even if you buy pre-cut panels, you’ll still need adhesive, a cutting tool and finishing caulk to hide the joints.

 

Step 3: How to measure for wall panelling

Measuring is absolutely key. There’s a reason for the phrase “measure twice, cut once” as it saves you so much grief further down the line.

Step 1: Measure the full width and height of the wall. I’d do this in two or three places along the wall, as no wall is perfectly straight. At this stage, also note where there is skirting or picture rails and where the panels will start and stop.

Step 2: Consider where there are obstructions, including windows, radiators and switches. Measure distances to and from these points (e.g. the ceiling to the top of a socket, and then the bottom of the socket to the floor).

If you’re installing panels that end at dado height, measure and draw a level reference line around the room at that height with a spirit or laser level; this is your anchor.

Step 3: Convert the measurements to figure out how many panels or mouldings you will need. When doing this, always allow for waste and cuts, adding at least 10% extra for a first DIY job, and always plan for symmetrical spacing, which often means adjusting panel widths slightly so you don’t end up with a tiny sliver at each end.

If you need a bit of help, you can use a wall panelling calculator to help you figure out the measurements and spacing and buy a kit that’s ready to install.

 

Step 4: Preparing the wall

Wall prep is the unsung hero of panelling. You’ll probably regret it if you skip this step, as you may have panels that refuse to stick to the surface or that come away over time. A repair can be far more expensive than doing the prep properly, so take the time to clean, fill, sand and ensure the wall is sound and dry.

Remove any wallpaper and fill any holes or uneven sections with filler. Sand down glossy paints so that your adhesive sticks and give the entire wall a scrub with sugar soap to remove any grease.

Treat any damp or mould at this stage too.

For lightweight moulded strips you can use strong adhesive alone, but for heavy timber panels it’s worth screwing or pinning into studs where possible.

 

Step 5: Laying out the panels and setting a reference line

You’ve done your measurements, you’ve got your panelling and you’ve cleaned the wall. Now what?

Draw your final layout on the wall in pencil. This will show you exactly where you need to glue your panelling and saves a lot of heartache later.

I’d recommend that you use a laser level or a spirit level to establish a horizontal datum line. This will be your reference point and will stop you creeping off level as you move along the wall.

If your panels run to the floor, then work from the floor up and sketch with your pencil or pen where the panels will go. If you’re installing framed panels that will sit on a base rail, or you’re starting your panelling further up the wall, then use that as your level line and work up.

Use a stud finder and mark stud centres so you can anchor the rails where extra strength is needed.

 

Step 6: How to cut panelling to create neat joints

No one wants wonky panelling, and the secret is in the cuts. These need to be precise and accurate to get precisely square panelling.

Take your measurements again

Start by taking the measurement directly from the wall at the exact point the panel will sit. I wouldn’t recommend that you rely on a previous measurement or a rough sketch.

Transfer that measurement onto your panel with a sharp pencil, then use a square or straight edge to draw a crisp, full line across the material. This simple step keeps cuts accurate and helps you avoid wonky edges.

Use your mitre saw to cut

When you’re ready to cut, support the panel properly on a flat surface so it doesn’t flex as you saw. If you’re using a mitre saw, set the blade angle to 45 degrees for external corners. These angled cuts let two pieces meet neatly at the corner without gaps.

For internal corners, you can butt the pieces together with a straight 90-degree cut, or, if you want a tighter join, scribe one piece to follow the contour of the other. This is a bit more fiddly, but it gives a really professional look.

 

Do a fit check

Always do a dry fit before you stick anything to the wall. Hold your cut piece in place, check the fit, and look for tiny gaps or angles that need a quick sand or trim. If something’s off, adjust now rather than forcing it with adhesive later.

Glue the panels in place

To fix the panels, apply a generous zigzag of adhesive to the back, press the panel firmly onto the wall and check it’s level as you go. A couple of discreet panel pins or a quick blast with a nail gun will hold everything in place while the adhesive cures.

If you’re working with MDF panelling, make it a habit to prime every cut edge before fitting as MDF loves to soak up paint, and priming beforehand gives you a far sharper finish.

The key is measure–mark–cut–test–fit–fix. Stick to that rhythm and your panelling will look crisp and properly built-in, not cobbled together.

 

Step 7: Dealing with switches, sockets and radiators

This is where panelling can get a little tricky, but there’s always a workaround.

Cutting around sockets and switches

First, turn the power off at the consumer unit so you can remove the faceplates safely. With the plate off, gently pull it forward so you can see the edges of the backbox. You don’t need to disconnect any wires, just give yourself room to measure.

Next, measure the exact position of the backbox on the wall.

The easiest method is to measure from two fixed points, for example, from the skirting upwards, and from the nearest corner inwards. Write these numbers down immediately. Then transfer those measurements onto your panel and draw a neat rectangle where the socket will sit. This double-measure approach means the cut-out lands exactly where it should, rather than being a millimetre off and ruining the whole panel.

Cut the opening before the panel goes anywhere near the wall. A multi-tool or jigsaw works best, but you can use a fine-tooth handsaw if you’re careful. Once cut, do a dry test by holding the panel up to the wall. If the socket opening isn’t sitting perfectly, shave off tiny amounts rather than widening it in one go.

When the fit is right, fix the panel to the wall with adhesive and pins as normal. You’ll notice the socket faceplate no longer sits flush; that’s normal. You’ll either need a slightly longer screw (often supplied with sockets) or a socket spacer/extension ring so the faceplate sits neatly on the new panelled surface. These are inexpensive and make everything look properly finished rather than buried in a hole.

Cutting around radiators

Radiators are similar in principle but require a bit more planning. If you’d rather not remove the radiator, measure and cut the panel so it stops just behind the radiator edges, and use beading or caulk to disguise the gap.

If you want the panelling to run completely behind the radiator, you’ll need to remove it from the brackets and drain/bleed it, perfectly doable, but only if you’re confident with basic plumbing.

By measuring from fixed points, cutting before installation, and using spacers where needed, sockets and switches blend seamlessly into your panelling rather than sticking out like an afterthought.

 

Step 8: Sealing and painting your panelling

I’m all about the details, so this step is really important.

You probably have nail holes, small gaps between joints and other gaps from where your wall bows slightly.

Use decorator’s caulk or filler to fill these gaps and when it’s dry, sand it back so it’s completely flush with the wall/panelling.

If you’re working with MDF or raw timber, apply your primer first and then go in with your chosen paint colour.

Eggshell is a popular choice for durability, satin for a slight sheen and wipeability. For timber panelling, you might prefer a hardwearing lacquer or an oil finish to show off the natural wood grain.

 

Common mistakes to avoid

Here are some common errors people make when panelling (including me):

• Cutting your panels without a clear layout
• Skipping your wall prep
• Not using a level line
• ‘Eyeballing’ the spacing instead of measuring it properly
• Choosing the cheapest adhesive.

Honestly, all these things will come back to bite you, so it’s just not worth it.

 

My pro tricks that make a big difference

I’m not saying I’m a panelling professional, but I do have some experience in this area, and therefore some top tips.

Paint the panels’ edging

If you want the crispest of joints, paint the panels’ edging before fixing it to the wall. This seals any cut edges and helps to reduce swelling.

Use temporary masking tape

Masking tape is great for holding the panels in place while you wait for the adhesive to try properly, and means you don’t need to get your nail gun out and fill in those holes later.

Plan your panel widths

If you want perfect symmetry across the room, with no awkward skinny slivers at each end of the room, calculate the panel widths and work out an even remainder. This means you can adjust each panel accordingly and not have to do any tiny, awkward cuts.

 

Final reassurance (and a plan of attack)

If you’re new to this, don’t panic! There’s a lot of information to take in, but you will get into a rhythm with it.

Try to tackle a single feature wall first rather than a whole room. Spend the time on measuring and prep, follow the reference line religiously, and take your time filling and finishing. Panelling transforms a space but it’s the careful prep and finishing that make it feel bespoke rather than “DIY”.

If you follow the sequence I’ve laid out, you’ll be able to do it on your own and have panelling that looks like it was done by a professional.

 

Some wall/ceiling panelling inspiration to get you started